Another option would be to install a 2×4 horizontal brace in between the studs. It involves cutting the wall open but drywall patching doesn’t look TOO difficult.
Chris Lukowski
Home theater enthusiast from New Jersey, USA
Member since 07.05.2023,
Forum Replies Created
If depth is a concern I would get the 1723 Surrounds and disconnect the jumper that powers the side woofers. That’ll solve the problem!
The Bookshelf speakers are sealed so you wouldn’t have to get them away from the wall. The included wall mount (see below) is designed to make it flush with a wall, but given your setup you might as well skip the wall mount and place them inside the cabinet shelving where your “Now Playing” and other framed picture is currently.
“Please note the 1723 Wall mount is included for the 1723 Surround (S) and 1723 Bookshelf S. For the 1723 Height S, the VESA100 wall mount is included.”
Ah, gotcha. I don’t think 8 feet is too far per se. Closer is better but you’ll be ok. MY 1961 “Heights” are serving as Surround Backs at 8 feet and they work great. I have them running on an BasX A2 to give them all the power they could want. The surround effects can sometimes feel more muted than those from my side surrounds, maybe due to distance but also maybe because that’s how the human ear works with sounds behind your head. You can always boost the levels to make rear effects jump out more. Also it doesn’t look like the 1961 Surrounds are available anymore. And if you’re going to put them IN the cabinetry you might as well use the 1723 S Bookshelf speakers since the triaxial sides on the Surrounds won’t get to do much.
PS – I’m liking the Lovesacs. I just got mine a few weeks ago! :D
Any option to mount them on the “projector bulkhead wall” or under the front of it with a ceiling mount? Those cabinets look quite a far way back.
Thanks for the feedback! My use case would be living room home theater and upmixed / Atmos-native music listening at about 10-12ft distance. No crazy volumes, 70dB at most for base level not including peaks, but I want those peaks to have all the juice they require to produce full dynamic range. Maybe it’s psychosomatic but I’ve heard many people say that when they moved their speakers from their AVR amp to a dedicated amp the sound was more “full” or “dynamic” to them with more noticeable “channel separation”. I was looking for metrics or guidance on how to achieve that assuming it’s a real phenomenon.
“If you like to listen loud, the bigger 1723 Monitors will of course have the edge. They also sound a little more direct in the upper midrange, whereas the 1723 Monitor S is a tad warmer.”
Hi Lukas, could you describe a little more what “warm” and “direct” mean as it applies to the midrange? And by midrange do you mean primarily vocals?
I really dig that center channel stand. Did you build that yourself?
Are any part time positions available?
It’s SO beautiful! :D Looking forward to hearing how it sounds for you.