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Around 8oHz is what we also tend to use with the 1723 Monitor speakers as the best balance between sound quality and max SPL. It will depend on subwoofer placement and room in general though, and also how loud one would tend to play.
I have the 1723 Towers and I also use 80Hz and balance my subs for MaxSPL. I’v noticed if you set the Towers to 60Hz down to 40Hz you losing 3- 6dB of bass output on the subwoofers when I ran a test. Would like to get my hands on duel 1723 2S’s to replace my Starke Sound SW12’s that will give me MaxSPL to the sub low end that I need.
Hi!
what other quipment are you using with the monitors and sub..?
with my 1961 setup, I actually moved the xover a tad up, i think its 110 or 120.. it gives extreme spl and the two 1961 s subs just delivers both low end and articulates upper bass!
Hi Johan, glad to make your acquaintance.
I use a NAD C370 integrated amplifier and a Marantz 6007 (I believe that’s the correct model number) CD player. I also use a SVS SB13 Ultra for my sub, and of course the 1723 Monitors (full size and plugged). I tried 63hz as the cross over frequency, but at certain frequencies the subs location could easily be picked out. When I went to 80hz, that issue completely went away. The SVS blends perfectly with the Arendals. At the time of my sub purchase, Arendal wasn’t producing their own. I’m strictly a 2.1 channel guy and since my CD collection is so large, I’m not going to just give up the format to start all new again. The Arendals sound so good, it’s hard the see what anyone would want for more.
It very much depends on your room, for example for me I set mine to 100Hz crossover as this achieves the best frequency response overall. This however, will all depend on your room since frequencies below 250Hz or so are greatly effected by the room.
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As the other guys said before, it will always depend on your room and setup.
I have my 1723 Monitors crossed over at 90Hz because it fixes a dip in the frequency response I had when set to 80Hz.
To get it perfectly dialed in, a measuring mic and software are a great help.
Highly recommended and not that complicated to operate.
Hi Neil!
I would try to level match sub/monitor around crossover, if you have an spl meter.. if not i’d simply use my ears..i would probably add a little more level at the sub, since it have way more headroom.
I would not be shy of trying 100-120 for crossover if you use the monitors sealed!
ps: how do you like the sound with NAD/AS ..?!
Thank you for the input. I don’t disagree with you at all. In my room I’m happy with 80hz. My room is long but only about 11ft wide. Unfortunately, my Arendals are on the long wall, so only about 8ft from my listening position. The sub actually fires across the Arendals and does not face the seating position. Through experimentation, this is the best way to avoid room nodes in my room and the base is very well balanced with my Arendals. I am perfectly happy with how things are set up. The Arendals sound so good down low, I only want my sub to handle the lowest frequency.
SVS makes very good subs and it would be hard for me to believe I could do any better. Maybe if I was in home theatre, but I’m strictly 2.1 channel. To me, TV is garbage so I’m not willing to waste my time on home theatre.
Regards,
Neil
Hi Johan,
The NAD C370 has been around for a good while now. My opinion is it is very well balanced in sound from high to low. It outputs 120w per channel which is way more than I need especially since it outputs 450w of headroom in a 4 ohm load. It is very quiet in the silent passages as well. My understanding from Audioholics.com is the Arendal 1723 Monitors actually really measure around 6 ohm (through most of the frequency range) so no issue driving these speakers. The NAD is a class A/B so it does get hot but never has been a problem. I also do not listen to my music much above about 70-75 decibels anyway. The Arendals put out a large amount of acoustic energy in my room so they are much easier to listen too at lower volumes. The only strange issue is if it is in standby (not powered off) and the electricity in my house goes off for some reason, it will automatically switch to the “on” mode. This is not much of a problem, except I may not notice for days it’s on. It is inside a cabinet with doors so you can guess it’s like a toaster oven when the doors are opened. I must say though, it can handle the heat and has never shut down. I was interested in the McIntosh MA252 so a call was made to my dealer. He asked what I’m using now and when I told him, he said, “that is a very good integrated amp”. All in all, I decided to stay with it until the day it craps out. I’m not saying it is on the same level as the McIntosh especially since the Mc is $3500.00, but for my listening I’m happy. I’ve seen the NAD on Ebay very reasonable and it would be a good amp to try if someone is looking for a good amp and doesn’t want to spend a lot.
The one thing I do wonder about is how the new NAD class D amps (and others) sound, the reviews are very good. I’ve been tempted to give one of them a go as well but just can get myself to depart with my A/B integrated. Truth be told, if the money and timing work out, my hearts desire is to have a McIntosh. If it never works out, so be, I’m still going to be happy.
Regards,
Neil
Totally agree, everyone has to experiment. If you don’t, you may be missing out on something great right under your nose. So many people say you have to have 2 Subs for the best sound. For me, one works perfectly. Maybe it’s a little harder to get the sweet spot with one sub, but i think I’ve found it in my room.
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